It must first be remembered when buying a rabbit that the expression “breeds like rabbits” has just cause! Rabbits can start having babies at 3 months old and can have a new litter every 3 months. Litters are large which amounts to a lot of rabbits! It is not advisable to buy a rabbit in order to breed as you will struggle to rehome the babies.
Rabbit need to remain with their mother for the first 6 weeks to 2 months. Unfortunately many are removed from their mothers before they are old enough which can lead to many health problems, especially of the gut. This is particularly true of the pet store trade where they put very young babies on display – the “cute” factor means a quick sale. Pet stores are also very bad at gender recognition in rabbits and so if buying two rabbits you may end up with a mating pair and eventually lots of little rabbits. They often pack lots of animals in one cage which can also lead to disease.
There are many types of rabbits – a dwarf variety remain very small, living only 4 years but the giant lop-eared variety weighing 8kg live to around 15 years. “Know your onions” when going to pick a rabbit and know what you want from a bunny. The dwarf varieties tend to have flat faces (braciociphalic). A good choice and one which is commonly available is the New Zealand White rabbit. This is a white rabbit with red eyes, although there is a New Zealand black too. This breed is very social and more patient with children. They tend not to nip or struggle when handled and if petted will relax and spread out in a rag doll fashion. They have been known to learn children’s games such as hide and seek. They will grow to a maximum of 5kg which is larger than most people expect but have good health and live for up to 10 years.
It is better to get your rabbit from a shelter or reputable vet where you will have more information available.
Rabbits are high stress animals meaning that they are not suitable animals for dressing up by little girls. Both children and adults need to learn how to handle the rabbit appropriately. A well-treated rabbit will not nip or bite, will be very social and be a great playmate: running, jumping and learning tricks for their companions. Rabbits are social creatures but, unlike dogs, do not have an alpha-omega pack structure. They learn through encouragement. If hit or shouted at they become unruly and even aggressive. Gently love your rabbit and it will love you faithfully.
They do need lots of contact with people. If you cannot give this, consider keeping two rabbits or a guinea pig with the rabbit. If you opt for two rabbits, introduce them slowly so they do not fight and give them space away from each other. Rabbits are exceptionally good indoor pets, particularly in hot climates. If kept in the lounge, they get lots of play and attention and then behave better than if kept away from their owners. Keeping a rabbit in an area without an air conditioner in this climate is not an option as they will simply die from the heat.
Like all pets, rabbits need a continual source of fresh water. Drip bottles are available from pet stores (the bigger the better) and rabbits can be quickly taught how to use these. Bowls of water need to be heavy (glass is a good option) as rabbits tip water and feeding bowls over with their long hind legs, ending up with a wet bed and no water. The water will need topping up and changing several times a day. Using both a drip bottle and a bowl ensures that should one become unavailable the rabbit has another source.
Rabbits need access to hay at all times. Some pet stores will sell bags of hay but a cheaper option is the roadside sellers in rural regions. One small bale of hay will last a very long time. Keep under shelter but allow it to dry out. Very green hay creates a very bouncy bunny and if the hay gets wet it can grow dangerous fungi. Commercial feeds can supplement a rabbit’s diet, but beware of feeding too many pellets as these can affect the rabbit’s kidneys.
Rabbits will eat green peppers, apples (seeds removed), carrots, bananas and other fruits and vegetables. However, do not feed them leaf vegetables such as lettuce or parsley as this will cause diarrhoea or worse. There are many online resources about what they can eat.
A rabbit needs space to run. You will either need to build/purchase a large run enclosure, or allow the rabbit out inside the house. This is a good way to play. Do not use a cage with a wire mesh bottom – rabbits need a solid cage bottom. Place a piece of fake fur or cloth over the floor to prevent too much wear on the rabbit’s feet.
Bedding should be of hay or shredded paper. Avoid shavings as this is a health hazard for your rabbit. A layer of newspaper with hay on top is easily tipped out once per day, with the bed wiped and paper and hay replaced. Don’t let this get too damp.
Be aware that a rabbit will chew anything. You will need to secure cables out of reach and be prepared to have your furniture and walls gnawed. Providing your rabbit with walnuts and unshelled pistachios is a good way to combat this. You can also purchase toys or special mineral stones for them to chew on. Stale bread, dried out further in the oven (but not burnt) is an easy way to create a gnawing toy. As with all rodents, their teeth will continue to grow. You must let them gnaw something appropriate to prevent the teeth causing serious problems.
Do not bath a bunny, this can cause a heart attack. Rabbits are very clean and will groom themselves all the time (very cute). Brush to help prevent fur balls becoming a problem, especially when the rabbit is shedding hair. If the rabbit has had “the runs” and a bath is required, place a towel at the bottom of the bowl, fill very slowly and dry the rabbit well after. Hairdryers on a very low setting can be used.
Rabbits themselves do not smell, unlike cats and dogs. However a dirty cage will smell so if you notice a whiff, change the bunny’s bedding. Keep your rabbit’s bed/hutch/cage clean. You can litter train a rabbit with ease, but you must clean bedding out every day. Rabbits that have damp cages tend to get a fungal infection called sore hocks. It is easily treated but uncomfortable and easily prevented.
Make sure you are registered at a good vet. Not all vets are rabbit experts so do your homework. Be willing to do some research yourself (if you are reading this you already are). Rabbits will jump up and down from objects too high for them. Rabbits will leap from your arms and fall at least once. Having a good vet on call and who answers their phone is a must. It is fascinating to watch how a small rabbit grows and can quickly increase his or her jump space and distance. Soon your rabbit will sit next to you on the sofa from leap of 2 meters away.
Male rabbits can be neutered to prevent them fighting and to control any aggressive behaviour. This is recommended between 6 and 9 months. Females should be spayed to prevent them getting cancer. This should be done around the same age.
Rabbits can be trained to go on a lead. Your can purchase an appropriate rabbit lead from a pet store, but it may take your rabbit time to get used to the idea. They will love to play on real grass, just beware of cats and neighbourhood children.
Children and rabbits can go well together. Teach your child to handle the rabbit gently. Rabbits must be picked up holding their stomach AND their buttocks. A rabbit held in any other way may struggle and hurt itself and the handler. Rabbits cannot be picked up by their ears or fur.
Whenever obtaining a pet, do your homework. Rabbits make wonderful pets with the right owner but are not for everyone and as they live between 5 to 15 years it is a big commitment. If you travel, ensure you have a suitable carer for your pet. If you can no longer care for your animal, please contact an appropriate shelter.